标签： 苏州晚上必去的地方

24,000 pieces of data, we found out the ＂fried chicken capital＂ and ＂chicken king＂ in China.

If you want to rank the foods that can bring the most happiness, fried chicken can definitely enter the top three. A crisp bite, full of meat, and endless aftertaste. There are often such social news: "Pregnant women fall out with their mother-in-law for stealing a piece of fried chicken", "Players are disqualified from eating fried chicken at halftime" … Even though it is called junk food by their mothers and teachers, fried chicken is still a delicious food that many people can’t give up.

As a fried chicken lover, DT Jun has never understood why no one has scientifically studied how much Chinese people love fried chicken. With the attitude of strictness (dou) and sincerity (bi), we decided to use data to find the fried chicken capital of China. By the way, a "chicken king" was also selected.

▍ Panorama of "Fried Chicken Jiangshan" in China: Is there a difference in the taste of fried chicken between North and South?

First of all, when cleaning the data, DT Jun found that some fried chicken shops are not "exclusive": they can sell pancake fruit, or even focus on stinky tofu … For the purity of chicken shop data, we gave up hamburgers, bibimbap, hot pot, pancake fruit and other shops that mainly sell fried chicken. Therefore, fast food chains such as McDonald’s and KFC, as well as Korean restaurants with fried chicken as their signature, are temporarily excluded from this analysis.

Next, let’s reveal the national map of fried chicken.

There are more than 20,000 "pure" fried chicken shops in the country included in the map of Gaode. From the map, these fried chicken shops are concentrated in the southeast and central parts, especially some coastal cities are densely covered, and there are not many fried chicken shops in the western region. Pay attention to those areas with dense fried chicken shops and dark colors, mainly including Beijing, Tianjin, Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. These are the seeds of the "fried chicken capital" to be mentioned later!

Tofu pudding can be divided into sweet and salty, and fried chicken, which is also a national snack, will there be differences between North and South? Yes!

According to the classification method recognized by a fried chicken post bar, we temporarily divide these fried chicken shops into four schools:

Image source: Internet. From left to right are chicken chops, chicken wings mixed with Korean sauce and fried whole chicken.

DT Jun chose the cities with the total number of fried chicken shops in the top 40 in China, and calculated the proportions of three kinds of fried chicken shops, namely desktop, Korean and whole chicken, and found that the proportion of desktop fried chicken was as high as 56%!

This result may not surprise you. After all, if you look around the food city, you can name the fried chicken shops, such as Zhengxin chicken chops that appeared in Extreme Challenge, the huge number of "knockoffs" and the super chicken carts, all of which are desktop fried chicken.

Although the most mainstream desktop fried chicken is popular among the people of the whole country, there are still differences between the north and the south when you look closely. According to the number of fried chicken shops per capita in each region, southerners love desktop fried chicken more deeply, especially in Dongguan, Sanya and Xiamen. In Dongguan, there is a desktop fried chicken shop for an average of 14,000 people. The people in the north, on the other hand, seem to be really less interested in table fried chicken. In the top ten per capita, Taiyuan is the only northern city.

Since I don’t like table fried chicken, what do northerners like? The answer is to fry the whole chicken.

Even though desktop fried chicken almost dominates the country, there are seven cities with more whole chicken shops than desktop fried chicken, all of which come from the north. In Daqing City, Heilongjiang Province, 75% of fried chicken shops sell whole chickens. For example, online celebrity Broiler, who was fined 500,000 yuan for advertising slogans related to pornography, "ordered fried chicken" (this is the name of some stores after they changed their names, what was it called before ….. Baidu itself), although it originated in Shanghai, but from the point of view of the distribution of stores, it mainly expanded to Chengdu and several northern cities.

Finally, let’s take a look at the windy Korean fried chicken in the past two years. In recent years, because of the joke of fried chicken+beer in You from the Stars and the fried chicken broadcast by various South Korean up owners in bilibili, Korean fried chicken has become a force to be reckoned with in fried chicken rivers and lakes.

After all, it is a newly-emerged fried chicken sect. Compared with the Jianghu elders such as table fried chicken, Korean fried chicken is still much less powerful. The fried chicken shops specializing in Korean flavor only account for about 5% in the country, and it is also a minority in cities.

However, one city’s love for Korean fried chicken stands out from the crowd. This city is Mudanjiang City. In this city, desktop, Korean and whole chicken are almost three points in the world. Korean fried chicken also beat desktop fried chicken with a slight advantage of 3.4%.

▍ "Chicken King" Championship: National Overlord VS "Local Snakehead"

There are so many schools of fried chicken, which school can be the "Wulin League Leader"? The data shows that the fried chicken brand with the largest number of stores in China is Zhengxin Chicken Chop.

I believe that you have actively or passively accepted its various advertisements: strongly implanted in "Extreme Challenge", Brother Hong Lei recorded the program while eating, and could not stop; Bo Huang personally endorsed the call for him … The propaganda offensive was in place, and the expansion speed was also beyond the reach of other fried chicken shops. On September 4th, Zhengxin Chicken Chop announced that there were 15,000 stores nationwide, compared with 800 stores six years ago.

Image source: screenshot of "Extreme Challenge" program

This "Zhengxin Snack Bar", which originated in Wenzhou, landed in Shanghai immediately after it became popular in the local area, and took the "postal area" as its base camp, and began the nationwide expansion of Zhang Zhilu. However, although Zhengxin’s expansion is fast, it has made slow progress in the Northeast. It’s not that the Northeast doesn’t love fried chicken. There are actually many local fried chicken shops. As a "fried chicken tycoon", did Zhengxin encounter any strong opponents?

Once again, with the store data, DT Jun found out that online celebrity, the brand that defeated Zhengxin Chicken Chop in Northeast China and succeeded in defending it, "called a fried chicken". Perhaps, the bold Northeasters don’t like to eat chicken fillet with bamboo sticks, but prefer to tear the whole chicken leg by hand, so this fried chicken brand, which focuses on frying the whole chicken, firmly holds the fertile market in Northeast China.

It is not surprising that Zhengxin has not been able to dominate the Northeast for the time being. In fact, in addition to ordering a fried chicken, other large chain fried chicken brands have not caused any storm in the local area. There are more than 20 large chain stores with more than 100 stores nationwide, such as the first best chicken chops endorsed by Du Haitao and the big-faced chicken chops that dominate Henan Province. There are not many stores in Northeast China.

▍ "fried chicken capital": a nostalgic person in the imperial city

After combing the national fried chicken preferences, DT Jun also found the "fried chicken capital". Although Dongguan ranks first in the country in terms of the data of fried chicken shops owned by per capita, Beijing is the well-deserved "fried chicken capital" in terms of the total number of fried chicken shops in the city. Moreover, when it comes to eating fried chicken, Beijing pays special attention to tradition and is a "fried chicken capital" with stories.

Then, let’s take a closer look at the detailed "fried chicken power map" in Beijing to see which residents of the imperial city have propped up the heat of "fried chicken capital".

First of all, I have a rough look at the number of fried chicken shops in each district. Chaoyang people are far ahead in the number of fried chicken shops, followed by Haidian and Changping District.

However, the area of each district and county is different, and one Changping district is almost equal to 16 Shijingshan districts. Moreover, the population density in each district is also different. In order to be fair, DT Jun calculated the supply and demand of fried chicken shops in each district with the number of permanent residents in each district and county.

As a result, Chaoyang people never let people down. With an average of one fried chicken shop for every 22,200 people, it has secured the title of "the strongest fried chicken fan in the Imperial City".

After talking about who loves fried chicken in Beijing, let’s talk about what kind of fried chicken the "fried chicken capital" likes best.

As mentioned earlier, in the current fried chicken rivers and lakes, there are Korean fried chicken, desktop fried chicken and other major sects. But in the eyes of old Beijing, American fried chicken is synonymous with fried chicken.

According to the data of Gaode Map, among the 569 fried chicken shops in Beijing, there are 49 with the word "American" in their names.

When it comes to American fried chicken, don’t think of McDonald’s, KFC, and Kalexing at the first time. What Beijingers say about American fried chicken is not these, but the following:

This most authentic American fried chicken in the eyes of old Beijing is an improved version.

According to legend, American fried chicken originated in South America. It is said that during the American Civil War in the 19th century, chicken was the only food allowed to enter the table of black slaves. Most black slaves engaged in manual labor, which consumed a lot of energy. Fried chicken supplemented their nutrition. In the 1990s, American fried chicken was introduced into Beijing, and the streets and alleys were full of American fried chicken shops. Although fried chicken is good, people in old Beijing always think it tastes good when they eat it, but … what seems to be the disadvantage? As a result, the people of Beijing who are rich in life (chi), life (huo), wisdom (jing) and wisdom (shen) began to improve.

Authentic American fried chicken is to fry the salted chicken in an oil pan without any seasoning powder when eating; Although Jingweier fried chicken is salted before frying, the store will stubbornly give you a packet of cumin and Chili noodles, which can be said to be the collective memory of the post-80 s generation.

Finally, rank the fried chicken brands in Beijing according to the number of stores. The top five are all "local brands" based on the Beijing market, except Zhengxin Chicken Chop and the first best chicken chop, which are strongly expanded by the franchise model. And "American fried chicken", a local brand with strong Beijing characteristics, has also successfully entered the top five.

On the dragon and tiger list, there is also a brand "old Beijing American fried chicken" ranked ninth. It is the same as "American fried chicken", although its name is particularly simple, but it is an old brand with many years of history. Together, these two brands have 22 stores in Beijing, supporting half of the American fried chicken in Beijing.

It seems that even in today’s strong expansion of chain brands relying on the advantages of business model, Beijingers still love the most authentic "old Beijing flavor" in their minds.

▍ Fried chicken is not just a snack.

Hard-boiled chicken, three cups of chicken, steamed chicken, saliva chicken … There are 10,000 ways to cook chicken in Chinese, but the fried chicken simply rolled with oil has been popular for decades. When KFC came to China for the first time in 1987, DT Jun remembered that when I was a child, my classmates had to go to KFC to celebrate their birthdays. After getting good grades, my parents rewarded KFC, which is also a childhood memory for many people.

This kind of food is bright in color and smells wonderful. When you take a mouthful of fresh chicken juice, you will feel "indulgent" instantly. It is really a good thing to relieve stress and satisfy your appetite. Moreover, even if the brands of fried chicken emerge one after another, the positioning of being close to the people has not changed. A fried chicken won’t add much to the meal, but it can make your fingers taste happy for most of the day.

Everyone likes fried chicken. DT Jun selected "Fried Chicken Capital" and fried chicken brand No.1 with data. Where is the best fried chicken in your mind? Leave a message and tell us!

Text | Qi Chen: chenqi@dtcj.com

Guo Guo: guowanjing@dtcj.com.

Figure | Zou Lei Zhao Wei

Russia’s new arms plan submitted to Putin will cost 320 billion US dollars to focus on strategic nuclear forces.

　　　　　　　　CCTV News:At the end of this year, Russia will release a new version of the National Armament Plan, which has been submitted to President Putin a few days ago, and the specific contents have not been made public.

　　　　　　　　On December 15th, the new Russian National Armament Plan was formally submitted to President Putin, and the draft plan will be approved by Putin before the end of the year.

Russian President Vladimir Putin

　　　　　　　　Although the specific content of the new armament plan has not yet been made public, there have been some clues. In late November, when Putin held the tenth series of meetings with army generals and defense industry representatives in Sochi, the task for the Russian army was — — We must ensure strategic deterrence, and if there are potential threats, we must eliminate them.

　　　　　　　　Spend $320 billion on strategic nuclear forces.

　　　　　　　　Bondarev, chairman of the Russian National Defense and Security Committee, said that Russia’s national armament plan for 2018-2025 will cost 19 trillion rubles, or about 320 billion US dollars, and the future development of military equipment will focus on high-precision strike weapons and strategic nuclear forces.

　　　　　　　　Some American think tanks are also very concerned about Russia’s armament trends in the next few years. The University of Washington, USA, released the title on November 22nd.Report on Russia’s Military Modernization PlanThe equipment to be purchased by the Russian army in the next few years is analyzed, and it is considered that the development focus of the Russian trinity nuclear force by 2027 is basically clear:

sea

　　　　　　　　existIn terms of nuclear forces at seaAfter 2021, Russia’s maritime nuclear forces will include six "Delta IV" class and eight "God of the North Wind" class ballistic missile strategic nuclear submarines (SSBN), which will be evenly distributed to the Northern Fleet and the Pacific Fleet.

air

　　　　　　　　In terms of air nuclear powerRussian air nuclear forces are being upgraded, and modern Tu -95MS and Tu -160 bombers are being replaced with new engines and avionics, and weapons are being upgraded; The new long-range cruise missile Kh-101 with a range of up to 4,500 kilometers will replace KH-55; The construction of Tu -160 will also be restarted.

ground

　　　　　　　　In terms of nuclear power on the groundAt present, there are three projects in progress, among which the "Boundary" project is the closest to completion, the next-generation well-launched intercontinental ballistic missile RS-28 "sarmat" will be deployed after 2020, and the launch test of the "Balguzin" missile train is expected to be carried out in 2019.

　　　　　　　　"Balguzin" missile train project suspended

Missile train

　　　　　　　　Surprisingly, the "Balguzin" missile train project, which had been highly anticipated before, has been dismounted. At the beginning of December, the Russian newspaper quoted a senior official of the Russian military-industrial complex as saying that the development plan of a new generation of "Balguzin" missile trains has been suspended and will not be restarted in the foreseeable future.

　　　　　　　　For a long time, the "Balguzin" missile train has been regarded as a shadowy "nuclear arrow". Ota said that the system was originally planned to start service in 2019. Before 2020, the Russian strategic missile force will form five missile regiments equipped with train missile systems. Each regiment will be equipped with six Jarls strategic missiles, each of which can carry 3-4 nuclear warheads. The self-sufficiency of the missile train system can reach one month, and it can maneuver more than 1000 kilometers in one day, which can be hidden in railway branches or tunnels. Within 3 minutes of receiving the launch order, the strategic missile can enter the launch state.

　　　　　　　　Media: Suspension of "Balguzin" or lack of money

pause

　　　　　　　　At the beginning of February 2016, the British "Jane’s Defense Weekly" reported that due to Russia’s economic difficulties and tight budget, the high-profile missile train project would have to be cut off. At that time, it was denied by the Russian side, and the dismantling of the "Barguzin" missile train project was also considered to be related to financial pressure.

　　　　　　　　New plan funds: 24 trillion rubles reduced to 19 trillion.

military expenditure

　　　　　　　　The amount of funds for the arms program needs to be approved by the Russian Ministry of Finance. In response to the new version of the National Arms Program, Russian Defense Minister shoigu asked for 24 trillion rubles (about 400 billion US dollars) in the summer of 2016, and Finance Minister Silu Anoff only agreed to give half of it. A fierce dispute broke out between the two sides. By November this year, the final amount was 19 trillion rubles, which is still far from the expectations of the Russian Ministry of Defense.

It turns out that seals are so interesting that they have increased their knowledge!

When it comes to seals, I believe everyone will be familiar with them. Like walruses, they are all flippers, but the two hind flippers of seals can only bend backwards, so they can only crawl on land.

Seals spend most of their time in the sea. Their bodies are spindle-shaped and have short hairs all over their bodies. Their forelegs are shorter than their hind feet, and there are nails on these flippers. Seals also have ears, but their ears have become very small and can be opened and closed freely when swimming. They are good at swimming, and their hind feet are like divers’ fins, which can swing back and forth in the water and move forward quickly. Seals dive for a long time, usually up to more than half an hour. When diving underwater, their heart rate will drop very low, which can reduce oxygen consumption.

Most seals live in cold waters, but they are not afraid of the cold, because they have a thick layer of fat, so seals usually like to live in places with ice in the North or South Pole. Seals also live in some sea areas of China, such as Bohai Sea. These sea areas freeze every winter, especially in Liaodong Bay and ice period for 130 days. These thick ice layers are inaccessible, and seals thrive here, the most of which are spotted seals.

These spotted seals are small, generally only 1.5 to 2 meters long. The maximum weight of males is 150 kilograms, while females are slightly smaller, about 100 kilograms. Their biggest feature is that their backs are covered with irregular brown-gray or brown-black spots, hence the name of spotted seals. They are very cute, so they are also permanent residents of the aquarium.

In the seal society, polygamy is practiced, so the number of wives and concubines usually depends on the male seal’s own physique. In order to compete for females, males often fight. Seals fight a bit like sumo. They use their hind legs to support themselves and try their best to pounce on each other. Sometimes seals will bite each other’s fur and blood will flow. At the end of the battle, the winner wins the right to mate, while the loser can only continue to look for the next female seal.

In early spring, baby seals will be born. At this time, we can see a young seal lying next to the female seal, which is very interesting. The young seal is raised by both parents, and the female seal is fed several times a day. Of course, the mother seal will only breast-feed her baby. If other baby seals come near, they will be rudely driven away. Some people may think that the mother seal is selfish, but this may be the law of nature.

The fat content in seal milk is very high, so baby seals will grow very fast. Young seals don’t have a thick layer of fat, but their hair is very fluffy and soft, and baby seals rely on these hairs to keep warm. But fluffy hair makes it inconvenient for them to swim, so baby seals rarely go into the water during lactation. Most of the fur of baby seals is white. From a distance, it is like snow, which is not easy to be found. They are not afraid of the cold and live a very leisurely life.

The lactation period of seals is not long, especially spotted seals, which only lasts for one month. After lactation, the mother seal will become skinny, and they will leave their children to recover. At this time, the seal family will end and the baby seal will begin to live independently in the water.

The leathers of seals are tough, comparable to cowhide, and can be processed into purses and leather shoes. Their thick fat can extract oil, and their meat is edible and has high nutritional value. In addition, the testicles of male seals are valuable Chinese herbal medicines, which have the effects of enriching blood and strengthening yang, and their livers are valuable tonics. Seals are all treasures, so they have always been the target of human hunting. Every spring, seals go ashore. In the 19th century, many countries used well-equipped ships to catch seals in the Antarctic, among which the crab-eating seals were the most caught. These hunting teams kill seals like crazy, and they can get tens of thousands of leopard skins from South Georgia in just one season.

Before the 1980s, fishermen along the Bohai Sea in China also had a tradition of killing spotted seals, but later legislation prohibited the killing of spotted seals, and now the population has recovered. In 2009, EU legislated to ban the trade of seal products, and Russia also banned the commercial seal slaughter.

Xiamen Xiang’an： The deep integration of finance and industry empowers the new pattern of industrial development

2023 Finance and Industry (Xiang’an) Exchange Conference (Southeast Network reporter, Xia Jing, photo)

Southeast Network reported on April 27 (reporter, Xia Jing, correspondent, Ye Xiaofei) On April 27, Xiamen Xiang’an District held the 2023 Finance and Industry (Xiang’an) Exchange Conference with the theme of "Financial Empowering Industry, Industry Driven Development" to showcase the development results of Xiang’an District’s financial industry and excellent industrial investment promotion policies.

At this exchange meeting, the "Xiang’an District Enterprise Financial Service Center" was officially established, establishing a one-stop comprehensive service platform for banks, securities firms, investment funds and other Financial Institutions Groups and enterprises. A signing ceremony was also held on the spot, and a total of 21 projects were successfully launched or increased capital and production.

Policy presentations and keynote speeches are full of "dry goods"

As the youngest administrative region in Xiamen, Xiang’an is in its prime at the age of 20. Huang Helin, Secretary of the Xiang’an District Party Committee, gave a general introduction to the development of Xiang’an in his speech. After the establishment of the district, the GDP of Xiang’an increased from 2.24 billion yuan to 88.714 billion yuan in 2022, with an average annual growth rate of 17.4%; it has ranked first in all counties (cities and districts) in the province for many consecutive years.

According to the introduction, Xiang’an District has two 50 billion-level industrial chains. The output value of the two industrial chains of flat panel display, semiconductor and integrated circuit all account for "half of the country" in the city. It is the largest optoelectronic industry base in the province and an important advanced manufacturing base in Xiamen. In terms of financial development and supporting innovative enterprises, Xiang’an District established a district-level industrial guidance fund in 2019 to continue to strengthen the connection between industry and finance, and effectively promote the high-quality development of the industry. At present, the district industrial guidance fund has 9 industrial sub-funds with a total scale of 19.623 billion yuan, and a total of 103 projects have been warehoused and landed. The total scale is about 30 billion yuan, which has injected more "fresh blood" into the high-quality development of Xiang’an.

At the meeting, Li Yi, the head of Xiang’an District, focused on the policies issued by Xiang’an District in promoting financial investment, assisting enterprises in financing, and promoting the listing of enterprises.

At the event, Shao Yu, a researcher at the CSI Financial Research Institute, Cao Chao, the regional director of the South Center of the Shanghai Stock Exchange, Deng Zhiqin, the executive manager of the market development department of the Shenzhen Stock Exchange, and Sun Caile, deputy chief of the South China Region of the Beijing Stock Exchange and the head of the Xiamen Base, four representatives of the financial industry and the exchange brought keynote speeches full of "dry goods" to the guests.

Xiang’an District Enterprise Financial Service Center was officially established (photo provided by the organizer)

Xiang’an District Enterprise Financial Service Center was officially established

The inauguration ceremony of Xiang’an District Corporate Financial Service Center, an important part of the event, was launched in the presence of Huang Helin, Secretary of Xiang’an District Party Committee; Li Yi, Governor of Xiang’an District; Wu Qirong, Chairperson of Xiang’an District Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference; Deputy Director of Xiamen Municipal Financial Supervision Bureau for re-election; Huang Tao, Vice President of Xiamen Central Sub-branch of the People’s Bank of China; Ye Min, Deputy Director of Xiamen Supervision Bureau of China Securities Supervision Commission; and Tan Chen, Deputy Director of Xiamen Supervision Bureau of China Banking and Insurance Regulatory Commission.

It is reported that the service content of Xiang’an District Enterprise Financial Service Center includes the formulation and publicity of various financial policies in Xiang’an District; coordinating and coordinating the needs of relevant Financial Institution Groups and government functional areas of business docking enterprises; organizing project roadshows, salon forums, government-bank-enterprise docking meetings and other activities; providing listing consultation, training and coaching, resource docking and restructuring coaching services for companies to be listed; submitting service matters that need to be coordinated across departments to the Financial Work Joint Conference for approval and other matters.

Ruan Xiaoxia, Deputy Director of Xiang’an District Finance Bureau, said that by building a docking service platform between Financial Institution Groups and enterprises such as banks, securities firms, and investment funds, it can accurately and effectively connect with the development and financing needs of enterprises, and effectively improve the quality and efficiency of financial services to the real economy. It will help Xiang’an District’s industrial transformation and upgrading and high-quality development, and further enhance the business environment of Xiang’an District.

Signing Ceremony (Photo by Xia Jing, reporter of Southeast Network)

21 projects were successfully launched or expanded

The signing ceremony of Xiang’an District project was also held at the event site. A total of 21 projects were successfully implemented or increased capital and production, with a total investment of 9.705 billion yuan. The signing projects involve modern industries such as intelligent manufacturing, supply chain, semiconductors, and financial investment institutions.

The key investment projects signed this time are Fujian Province Big Data Industry Financial Leasing, Suyou Hotel, Xiangye Aviation Training Base, Ailixin Optical Products, Zhuoer Zhilian, Jiexin Precision Mold, Yongyulai Machine Tool and Taiding Mo Foreign Supply Chain Project. A total of 8 projects landed in Xiang’an, with a total investment of 1.84 billion yuan. The funds and return projects signed this time are 943 Cosmetics, Black Ant Coffee Factory, Yuanyi Consumer Technology Fund, Haoyue Fund, Shengtun Tianyu Fund, Black Ant Phase III RMB Fund, Jinding Consumer Fund and Junshi Fund. A total of 8 projects were successfully landed in Xiang’an, with a total investment of 5.365 billion yuan.

The contracted projects for capital increase and expansion include PATEO vehicle to everything intelligent end point auto show, Xiamen Fangyang Grain, Oil and Food Co., Ltd., expansion, strong giant color LED Phase II photoelectric industrial park, Xiang’an District Yuhua industrial plant and supporting facilities, and Juci Technology (New Materials) Industrial Park. A total of 5 projects were landed, with a total investment of 2.50 billion yuan. 5 project representatives signed contracts with the cooperative bank.

This event has built a good platform for the Financial Institution Group and enterprises to enhance mutual understanding and deepen exchanges, and will also bring new opportunities and inject new vitality into the development of Xiang’an. With more potential projects landing and Xiang’an further promoting the integration of finance and industry, the development momentum of Xiang’an will become more and more abundant in the future, and the development prospects will become more and more broad.

Chery tiggo 9 opens global pre-sale

Recently, the global pre-sale activity of Chery Automobile Tiggo 9 was officially launched in Hefei Binhu International Convention and Exhibition Center. As a new generation of global flagship SUV, Tiggo 9 is the first model of Chery Automobile’s high-end intelligent platform-Mars architecture-super hybrid platform, with a global pre-sale price of 155,000 yuan.

According to reports, Chery Tiggo 9 is based on ultra-stability, fun driving, intelligent driving, temperature sense, touch, vision, hearing, smell and space to create nine leapfrog comfort zones. For example, in terms of ultra-stable comfort, it is equipped with CDC magnetic suspension, equipped with five vehicle state monitoring sensors, four electromagnetic shock absorbers and one controller, which can adaptively adjust the electronic damping at the millisecond level, so that the whole vehicle is always in the best driving state; In terms of driving pleasure and comfort, it is equipped with Kunpeng Power 400T+7DCT or Aisin 8AT gold power combination, among which Kunpeng Power 2.0T engine is the top ten engine of "China Heart"; In terms of intelligent network connection, it is equipped with Qualcomm Snapdragon 8155 chip and L2.9 intelligent driving assistance system.

Since March 22nd, 2005, the first SUV of Chery and the first urban SUV of China brand went on the market, the Tiggo series has achieved the achievement of "300W+ for global users" in 18 years, which has become an indelible symbol made in China.

At present, as the latest achievement of Chery’s "Eta Ursae Majoris 2025" strategy, the Mars architecture-super hybrid platform will realize the global evolution in four dimensions: forward-looking wisdom, total comfort, high-efficiency power and leapfrog security, while the Tiggo 9, which inherits the Mars architecture-super hybrid platform, will continue the aura of the Tiggo series and open a new journey for Chery in the world.

Wuhu Daily reporter Zhao Dandan

After NMN, AKG, an epic anti-aging substance, has become a new anti-aging force.

An internationally renowned scientist at Harvard Medical School, one of the most influential figures in Time magazine, and the best-selling book Life: Why We Aging — — And why we don’t have to age, David Sinclair (David Sinclair), an anti-aging tycoon, followed NMN and resveratrol to promote another life-prolonging anti-aging substance on Twitter — — α -ketoglutaric acid (AKG)

After NMN, AKG, an epic anti-aging substance, has become a new anti-aging force.

The "epic" anti-aging substance AKG can actually reverse the "aging clock" for 16 years.

On September 1st, 2020, the world’s first professional research institute on aging — — Barker Institute of Aging published the research on AKG’s anti-aging in Cell Metabolism, and the title of the paper was "alpha-ketoglutarate, an endogenous metabolite, stretches lifespan and compressors in aging mice". The content is as follows: Experiments show that AKG can reduce the biological physiological age by 8.5 years on average, and even by 16 years at most. These results are based on the clinically relevant markers of healthspan, which is the first time in the research involving mammals.

After NMN, AKG, an epic anti-aging substance, has become a new anti-aging force.

Image from cell metallurgy, 2020, doi: 10.1016/j.cmet.2020.08.004.

The so-called AKG means α Alpha-Ketoglutarate (AKG), an important metabolic intermediate in the tricarboxylic acid cycle, is a key node connecting carbon-nitrogen metabolism in cells. AKG determines the overall rate of trihydroxy acid cycle. AKG can regulate longevity by affecting mitochondrial function, inhibiting mTOR signal, inhibiting ATP synthase expression and indirectly activating Sirtuins protein.

As early as 2014, AKG attracted people’s attention as a possible anti-aging tonic. At that time, the research report of the British magazine Nature said: "Adding α -Ketoglutaric acid can prolong their life by about 50%. "

Professor Brian Kennedy, a genetic biologist who is the main person in charge of the project, said: "We screened dozens of compounds related to aging, and the last molecule that jumped out was α -Ketoglutaric acid, so I finally decided to carry out further research that is not as good as animals. "

According to the interim data published in the first half of this year, about two-thirds of the subjects showed the effect of reducing life expectancy, with an average life expectancy of 12% and an average incidence of 46%. According to the final experimental data, the subjects fed with AKG scored more than 40% higher in the "weakness" test, which was based on 31 physiological attributes, including hair color, hearing, gait and grip strength.

After NMN, AKG, an epic anti-aging substance, has become a new anti-aging force.

It is worth noting that the life span of female mice in the experiment is 8% to 20% longer than that of the control mice, and if compared with humans, it is equivalent to extending the life span by up to 16 years.

And then professor Brian KennedyAnother heavy experimental result published in Nature further proves the influence of AKG on human anti-aging.

After NMN, AKG, an epic anti-aging substance, has become a new anti-aging force.

In the experiment, Professor Kenney’s team organized 42 middle-aged and elderly people (with an average age of 63 years) to supplement for 7 months.AKG and vitamin compound preparation. Seven months later, the researchers re-measured the physiological indexes of this group of middle-aged and elderly people. The results showed that after 7 months of AKG intervention,The physiological age of this group of middle-aged and elderly people is 8 years younger on average.. At the same time, the participants’ sleep quality and other indicators have also improved significantly.The energy level jumped by about 50%.

Professor Kenney believes that this result confirms his initial guess: "In a sense, the level of AKG will decline with age. So we need to supplement it and let the body return to a younger level. "

At the same time, he also cautiously indicated that AKG needs further experiments to develop in view of the objective problems such as the small number of samples in this experiment.

Unlock the time code and refuse to grow old meekly.

Professor Kenney once said with confidence: "There is no reason why you can’t be interfered when you get old" and "Please don’t meekly accept getting old".

After NMN, AKG, an epic anti-aging substance, has become a new anti-aging force.

There is still a long way to go to study AKG, and how to use it better is the focus of people’s attention. It is reported that AIBORST (Albers Special), a well-known American anti-aging brand, recently announced the news that its first dietary supplement with AKG as the main body, Gene Kangyuan AKG18000, will land in the China market. I believe that in the future, with the deepening of AKG research, a new era that belongs to the health of the whole people and is rooted in anti-aging will soon open.

[Disclaimer]This article only represents the author’s personal views, and the copyright of its pictures and contents belongs only to the original owner. If you claim the rights and interests of this content, please let us know by letter or email, and we will take measures quickly, otherwise we will not bear any responsibility for the disputes related to it.

Why is it difficult to protect consumers’ rights and interests？

A few days ago, a car blogger posted that his friend bought an AITO Wenjie M5, and due to the epidemic prevention and control, licensing in special areas and the continuous high temperature, he informed the store to pick up the car later. But not long after, AITO issued her an order invalidation notice, saying that the order was invalid and the deposit would not be refunded.

This notification letter pointed out that it has been more than 10 working days since the consumer was notified to pick up the car, and the remaining car purchase money has not been received so far. According to the AITO Car Subscription Agreement, it is regarded as having given up buying a car.

In this regard, the consumer believes that he has not signed this agreement and has not agreed on the time of car purchase. Interface News tried to contact the consumer and got no response.

The relevant person in charge of Huawei’s automobile brand told the interface news that after discovering the complaint, the user center tried to communicate with the consumer, but it was not able to contact him yet.

"Our new delivery specialist didn’t hand over the work well and didn’t understand the previous communication situation. He directly sent an order invalidation notice, which was not in accordance with the standard process." The person in charge said that the consumer’s order was not cancelled and the deposit was not confiscated.

　

As a high-end new energy brand jointly built by Cyrus and Huawei, AITO currently sells models of Wujie M5 and Wujie M7, among which the first pure electric model, Wujie M5 EV, was released on September 6th, and the reservation was started. On the first day of listing, the order volume of M5 EV has exceeded 30,000.

However, with the increase of orders, the disputes between AITO and consumers began to increase. The interface news noticed that in the relevant complaint platform, most of AITO’s complaints were linked to the deposit, and focused on the non-refundable deposit and the sales concealment to induce the order.

A consumer complained that when he paid the deposit, the sales did not clearly tell whether the deposit could be refunded and the time limit for withdrawal; Another consumer told the interface news that he applied for a refund during the hesitation period of the deposit, but the refund process took a long time and waited for nearly three months. On the complaint platform, many consumers have been waiting for a refund for more than two months.

Interface News called a Huawei experience store as a consumer, and the car sales consultant of the store told Interface News that you can pay a deposit through online channels such as Huawei Mall to buy a brand car. The sales reminder, within 72 hours without confirming the lock order, the deposit can be refunded.

"Now, the M5 pure electric version has just been listed, and there is still a small order stage. You can pay 1000 yuan’s intention to reserve the rights and interests first, and the small deposit can be refunded at any time."

When asked about the deposit contract, the seller said that an electronic version of the contract would be issued when the deposit was paid. However, it was not until the final payment that the reporter noticed a line of small-print reminders, asking for the approval of the AITO Automobile Subscription Agreement and the AITO Automobile Privacy Policy. These two agreements will not pop up automatically, and consumers need to read and understand them themselves.

According to "AITO Automobile Subscription Agreement", 72 hours after the subscription deposit is paid belongs to the hesitation period. During the hesitation period, the subscription agreement can be terminated by unilateral notice. When the notice is delivered, all the subscription deposit paid will be refunded. Beyond the hesitation period, it is deemed that the unilateral termination right has not been exercised or waived, and the subscription deposit will not be refunded.

The above agreement also emphasizes the terms of the offline car purchase contract. The agreement requires consumers to go to the designated user center to sign the car purchase contract and pay the remaining car purchase price within 10 working days after receiving the notice. If it is not signed within the time limit, AITO has the right to decide to cancel the order and deduct the deposit paid.

Lawyer Gu Pan of Beijing Dacheng (Xi ‘an) Law Firm said in an interview with Interface News that the signed subscription agreement is a formal sales contract and is binding on both parties.

During the period of repentance agreed in the contract, the consumer notifies the merchant to return the deposit without a lock, and the merchant shall return the deposit according to the contract, otherwise the merchant will constitute a breach of contract; On the other hand, if the consumer fails to pay the final payment within the time limit stipulated in the contract, he will also be liable for breach of contract. Therefore, when buying bulk consumer goods such as automobiles, consumers should carefully browse the contract and understand the specific terms.

"If the seller makes false propaganda and misleading, causing misunderstanding among consumers, then the misled party can demand to terminate the contract and return the paid fees through litigation."

Gu Pan stressed that in practice, it will be more difficult for consumers to prove that they have not been informed or misled in advance, so it is necessary to pay attention to fixed evidence. When returning the deposit within the prescribed time limit, you should also remember to keep the written notice evidence to safeguard your rights and interests.

Zhang Xiang, a special expert of China Bolian think tank, told the interface news that the current car reservation system started from Tesla, and new forces have started booking processes such as small booking and big booking. Car owners who order in advance can enjoy more rights and pick up the car first.

"Most of the new car-making forces have a policy of free refund of the deposit. Only when they are about to go bankrupt or have no cash on their accounts will they not get the deposit back."

Zhang Xiang believes that it takes a long time for the brand to refund the deposit. On the one hand, the process cycle of refunding the deposit is really long, on the other hand, it also reflects Huawei’s lack of attention to consumer rights. "The contract does not clearly state the time requirement for refund, and the seller will naturally delay."

Mobile e-sports+casual games, China players pay more attention to the social attributes of e-sports？

　　In July, Gamma Data released the "2019 China Game Industry Semi-annual Report" — — In the first half of the year, the growth rate of China Mobile’s e-sports revenue was far ahead of that of client-side e-sports games, accounting for more than 60%.

　　Earlier, the Leisure Game Market Opportunity Research Report of 2018-2019, also from gamma data, pointed out that mobile leisure game users accounted for 66.4% of the total mobile game users in the past year, but leisure games only accounted for 6.6% of the mobile game market & hellip; …

　　Thanks to the demographic dividend of China and the rapid development of mobile Internet, mobile e-sports has gradually become the main force in the field of e-sports, but mobile leisure games are still a low-lying area with huge room for growth, which seems to mean that "mobile e-sports+leisure" will become an opportunity in the development tide of e-sports and games in China.

　　In the e-sports market, female users surged.

　　In the 2019 Tatan Elite Challenge, which just ended in Qingdao, 12 teams fought for two days, attracting thousands of live audiences and over one million online audiences. It seems that the e-sports event created by a light casual game also has strong box office and market appeal.

　　In fact, the Tatan Cup has been born for four years, and the popularity of "Ball-Ball Battle" is behind it.

　　As a casual game produced by Giant Network, official data show that there are more than 500 million users, 10 million daily activities and 150 million monthly activities, and the gender ratio of players is close to 4 to 6 (35% women and 65% men); In terms of age, 40.08% of the players aged 18 to 24, and 33.07% of the users aged 13 to 17 & hellip; …

　　The rise of "Ball Fight" has indeed caught up with the fast lane of China mobile e-sports development — — It was launched in mid-2015, which is earlier than many popular mobile games, but the precise positioning is probably more worthy of attention.

　　In the e-sports game market, especially on the mobile side, the scale of female users has surged.

　　Public data shows that from 2013 to 2018, the number of female players has increased from less than 80 million to 290 million.In the past, there were high barriers to heavy games, which made light games that focused on "leisure" just needed by the market. Its "popularization", such as relatively simple rules and operation, was not only more suitable for covering young people of all ages, but also met the needs of the rapidly growing group of female players.

　　In fact, not only female players, but also professional players in Tatan Classic, which is a difficult scene to see in other e-sports events.

　　Leisure+animation, the future industrial direction

　　Of course, there is still a long way to go from a popular game to a traditional e-sports event.

　　On the one hand, it benefits from the high stickiness of mobile e-sports users. According to the survey, the proportion of mobile e-sports users playing games every day is as high as 43.1%, and the proportion of playing games every week is also 25.3%, among which the proportion who are willing to watch events online is as high as 67.2%.

　　In addition, industry insiders also analyzed that while the competition of heavy game e-sports is intensifying, leisure e-sports built around light games is expected to become a "single product" in the market. Since 2016, Giant Network has successively launched a series of subdivided events such as BPL Professional League, Tatan Cup Elite Challenge, CEST Campus Challenge and BUC City Challenge, and deeply cultivated leisure e-sports.

　　It is worth mentioning that while maintaining the attributes of the game, leisure e-sports emphasizes the social functions in e-sports games.

　　According to statistics, "Ball Battle" creates a community online through team battles, seasons, leaderboards and other settings. On average, each player has 15+ friends, and the platform generates more than 12 million private messages every day, with a cumulative upload of more than 100 million selfies.

　　In terms of offline events, the Tatan Cup is closer to the carnival, with diverse scenes such as band performances, players meeting, audience interaction with the event presented together.

　　With the increasing social needs of young people, mobile e-sports has become a social product to some extent. According to the 2018 China Leisure Mobile Game Industry Report released by iResearch, 82% of leisure mobile game users said that they need to meet social needs in the game.

　　Producer Wu Meng has also said that social attributes will help game products to extend their life cycle. In fact, for leisure e-sports with weak antagonism, socialization is not only empowerment, but also its lifeline.

　　At present, giant network’s e-sports are actively seeking cross-border and circle-breaking. The previously launched "Journey" series has joined hands with the classic animation "Huluwa" to implant Huluwa elements in e-sports games. At present, the serial comics "Xingyun Brigade" and the virtual idol "Tatan" related to "Ball Fight" are also officially launched … …

　　Judging from the industry and market forecast, leisure, animation and massively multiplayer online e-sports and games still have considerable potential in the future.

　　The Paper reporter Chen Jun

＂Depth＂ You may not know what fashion is, but you must know why Paris = fashion.

[Global Network Fashion Channel Shine Wong] Paris is the center of global fashion. Paris Fashion Week, as the final stage of the four international fashion weeks in the world, not only has the longest history in origin, but also has the most far-reaching influence on global fashion among the four fashion weeks. Paris Fashion Week originated in 1910 and was sponsored by the French Fashion Association. The French Fashion Association was founded at the end of 19th century, and its highest aim is to make Paris as the fashion capital of the world rock solid.
France not only has the largest number of high-end luxury fashion brands in the world, but also is the dream place of many emerging designers. Compared with other fashion weeks, which are conservative and highly commercial, Paris Fashion Week constantly provides a stage for emerging designers from all over the world while sticking to local fashion brands. In the global fashion world, Paris Fashion Week has always been a leader, grasping the trend of the trend and constantly pioneering and innovating. Whether it’s retro classics or near-future technology, your favorite fashion type can always be found in Paris Fashion Week, so in many people’s minds, Paris is another synonym for fashion. The World Wide Web Fashion Channel specially analyzes the ten big shows of Paris Fashion Week in autumn and winter of 2020, so that you can easily understand what the latest fashion in the world looks like.
1.Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter 2020 series grand show came to the finale on the last day of Paris Fashion Week. The theme of this grand show is "Anachoronism", and designer Nicolas Ghesquière combines classicality with the future, which is related to "breaking the overall shape" and "collision" clearly runs through the audience. Renaissance prints and fluffy skirts are combined with modern sports technology styles, which are both retro and modern. As he said, no matter whether you are keen on "new" or obsessed with "old", you should put personality first: everyone can write his own history.
2.Chanel
The 2020 Chanel autumn and winter series show is still released in the Paris Grand Palace, which we are familiar with, and this show is also broadcast live for the first time. Designer Virginie Viard paid tribute to designers Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld in the history of Chanel brand in this season’s big show. This season, Chanel aims to show simple and pure female strength. Under the classic black-and-white main color, the brand-name tweed suit has also been given a new life. Chanel also adopted the form of two-person and three-person side-by-side catwalk for the first time. For example, Chanel girls meet with several friends and freely exude the beauty of softness and independence.
3.Celine
Designer Hedi Slimane has been injecting her unique style into the soul of the brand since she took over CELINE. CELINE’s autumn/winter 2020 series of men’s and women’s shows can still see Hedi’s unique style. She outlined retro and fashionable autumn/winter costumes in her enthusiasm for the middle class dress fashion in Paris in the 1970s, and cut through the gentle night colors in Paris with her sharp and precise tailoring, and integrated the Paris trend image in the 1970s into Celine’s own boys and girls’ dresses. This season’s big show also specially invited French artist CESAR to launch a series of cooperation series.
4.Hermès
Hermès autumn and winter 2020 series show still insists on the most extreme traditional craftsmanship and the simplest advanced beauty. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, a designer, takes pure white as the main color, supplemented by bright and flamboyant colors, and is painted with various harmonious and beautiful colors like an initial "palette", which explains the classicism belonging to Hermè s. Leather elements are the outstanding elements of this season, which are hard and sexy in soft materials, showing contemporary women.
5.Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director, drew inspiration from two precious photos left by her mother in her early years and her diary of her girlhood, and incorporated Mr. Dior’s favorite classic plaid and polka dot elements to turn the 2020 Dior autumn and winter show into a stage with both retro classics and modern free and easy atmosphere, reinterpreting the beauty of women in the new era. Maria continues to speak for women, telling stories of strong women who insist on themselves with phrases at the entrance of the show, and showing Dior women’s self-identity and extraordinary strength with clothing language.
6.Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, was inspired by art and poetry in Wales, and used clothing language to write about women’s courageous, simple, fearless and heroic female strength. The theme of this big show is "a love letter to women and their families, colleagues and close friends". The plaid elements such as Prince of Wales exude noble and elegant charm, and the embroidered veil dress reveals romantic artistic atmosphere in exquisite craftsmanship. The neat tailoring collides with soft and romantic details, showing a modern women’s wardrobe that is both feminine and chic.
7.Valentino
Valentino’s autumn/winter 2020 collection combines elegance with sexiness. The theme of designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is "rebellious romance". Under the elegant tailoring of opera style, it is an exploration of darkness and desire, thus showing a sexy but not vulgar, cold but affectionate atmosphere. Piccioli said backstage: "Fashion must record and embrace the great changes in the world. We must encourage tolerance and equality. " Therefore, this season’s big show uses a lot of leather elements to try to break the shackles of gender, and quite Japanese-style trousers are also a new highlight of this season.
8.Balenciaga
The stage of the 2020 Balenciaga autumn and winter show is full of images of waves and flames, and the models step out of the water in the dark, putting on a great show with great visual impact and grandeur. This big show is full of strong dark gothic style, with long skirts, cloaks, coats and windbreakers shrouded in darkness, and the square and silkworm-shaped contours favored by designer Demna Gvasalia. The overall tailoring and style are like a demon coming out. It’s shocking.
9.Balmain
Balmain’s autumn/winter 2020 series was inspired by the documentary Wonder Boy, in which tolerance and openness were important themes. Designer Olivier Rousteing said that he wanted to create clothes that reflected himself: half Ethiopia, half Somalia and 100% French. The combination of exotic prints, French wool cardigans, smoking clothes and other elements is just like him. The elegance of the nobility and the freedom of nomadism are perfectly and ambitiously combined. This big show uses Atsuko Kudo latex, a unique high-tech material, as the clothing material, and explores the infinite possibilities of fashion with strong visual impact.
10.Off-White
On the show of Off-White this season, the designer Virgil Abloh took the architectural industrial style as the keynote, while continuing to use the hollow design in spring and summer. The mix and match of fashion and sports brand is Virgil Abloh’s style that she always adheres to, and the Arc’teryx and Air Jordan 4 that appeared on this show are Virgil Abloh’s "clues" to get through outdoor trends and high fashion.
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Fashion, a rich projection of human history

Author: Chen Bin

Fashion brings people pleasure and even madness. People are crazy about fashion. What are they pursuing? The General History of Fashion, written by Marni Fogg, runs through the deep historical depth, from 500 BC to the present, which is as long as 2,500 years. It is all-encompassing, detailed and detailed, just like an encyclopedia. Through this magnificent picture, readers can see the rich projection of human history on fashion.

A General History of Fashion (Second Edition) [English] Manu Fogg translated by Chen Lei and published by China Pictorial Publishing House.

Fashion is an upgraded version of fashion power expression.

What is fashion? This seems to be well known, but it is difficult to summarize it accurately in one or two sentences.

For Chinese people, the word fashion is "imported", but fashion has never been absent in history, such as the openness and freedom of women’s dress in the Tang Dynasty, which is still impressive. Fashion and fashion are inseparable, and fashion is the mainstream of fashion history. Mani pointed out straight away: "The word" Fashion "comes from the Latin word" ‘Facito’ ",which literally means" making ".It is used to express all kinds of values, including such different concepts as consistency and social connection, rebellion and eccentricity, social desire and status, temptation and deception. The desire to dress up has broken through the limitations of history, culture and geography. Although the form and content may be different, the motivation is the same, dressing up the human body and expressing identity. "

Mani’s explanation is very comprehensive, the main meaning is nothing more than these aspects, that is, fashion symbolizes a kind of value and is the embodiment of identity; There are both inheritance and rebellion in fashion, and some people’s visions are often mixed. Fashion is essentially an external dress of the body.

The costumes in the initial stage of human civilization were rather crude. About 11,000 years ago, people gradually got rid of fishing, hunting and gathering life and began to settle down. Animal skins and plants that were only used by human ancestors to keep out the cold or disguise at that time gradually evolved into clothing. Living conditions are bad, materials are in short supply, and human beings don’t have many choices. Those who can wear animal skins are probably the "heads" who have more power.

The connotation of clothing being empowered has become an important carrier for the ruling class to defend its "sacred" status. To this end, the ruling class strives to innovate in clothing to show off the superiority of power.

"The concept of fashion is usually regarded as unique to western society and originated from the court in the 14th century." At that time, Europe’s commercial economy developed, capitalism began to sprout, and the status of emerging civil classes improved. "The combination of court and commerce brought the birth of modern fashion industry." In order to ensure the superiority of the ruling class’s clothing, on the one hand, power shows its unique luxury, on the other hand, it introduces a "ban on luxury".

Through Marni’s exhibition of history, we can see that "the gorgeous court costumes in Italy in the 14th century reflected the desire for luxurious silk decoration"; Women in the Tang Dynasty rushed to enlarge their sleeves, so that the court had to specifically limit their size; In fact, the "Twelve Orders" of women’s dresses in heian period Palace are composed of 10 to 25 pieces of silk, "each outer garment should show a part of the inner one"; The pleated headscarf advocated by the French court also symbolizes wealth.

The prohibition of luxury is an important starting point to distinguish power from ordinary people in the history of eastern and western courts. The medieval European court stipulated that ordinary people could not wear expensive silk from the East at will, and the Tokugawa shogunate in Japan also issued the same ban, while the ban on luxury in Myanmar focused on jewelry …

Mastering power means mastering the power of resources, so social aesthetics inevitably has a strong power color. In this sense, fashion is also one of the crystallization of power aesthetics. For a long time in history, the focus of fashion manufacturing is often the focus of power accumulation, which is why "the king of Chu has a thin waist and many people starve to death in the palace". Worship of power clothing, metaphor of obedience and proximity to power, even without asking why.

Through Manilow’s clothing styles, we can see that the power clothing show existed before the 14th century, so why didn’t the fashion tour start until the 14th century? On the one hand, it benefited from the prosperous development of European commerce, on the other hand, it was the changes brought about by the Renaissance. The social material is getting richer and the basic food and clothing is improving gradually, which provides an important material basis for the ordinary people to pursue higher clothing. Under the pressure of folk imitation enthusiasm, the power center had to speed up the pace of clothing novelty, which in turn stimulated the enthusiasm of the people, so the clothing realized the gorgeous turn of fashion.

Fashion is a short-lived accelerated version of fashion.

At that time, the clothing changed from the function of keeping out the cold to the so-called aesthetic significance, so it was doomed that no matter how warm it was, it could not last long. Coco chanel is a classic that never dies, but only the brand remains, and its connotation and form have been constantly updated with the pace of time. Even the "created tradition" like Scottish skirts is not what it used to be, and there are obvious differences in details such as fabrics and styles.

Mani pointed out that "fashion is often considered to be one-off, capricious and fleeting". Eric hobsbawm, a famous British historian, wrote in The Extreme Age: 1941-1991: "Why are outstanding fashion designers, a well-known group that is not good at analysis, sometimes able to predict the development of things more accurately than professional prophets? This is one of the most difficult problems in history; For cultural historians, this is the most important issue. For anyone who wants to understand the impact of the era of upheaval on high culture, elite art, and especially the avant-garde, this is definitely a key issue. " If you solve the question, you can’t call it fashion. Fashion is always so abstract and elusive.

Fashion was born from the imitation of power body performance, so, "Fashion is very good at’ borrowing’, which draws inspiration from different cultures and different historical times". Fashion developed with the improvement of production level, that is, the industrial age. Under the competitive pursuit of various new technology fabrics, new technologies and media, although there are still customized fashions like Valentino, a century-old shop, which insist on hand-making, fashion has since embarked on the fast lane of industrialization. This also shows that the more advanced the technology, the more branches of concepts, and the shorter the fashion.

Industrialization provides conditions for the rapid development of fashion, but fashion is not naturally produced by assembly line. There is a continuation of history and a rebellion against reality in fashion, just like the absurd clothes of American hippies. Fashion is the product of society first, and technology is only one of the factors. But historical factors often occupy an extremely important position. "From 1850 to 1860, at that time, men had to change clothes four times a day", and "the prince of Wales’ obsession with clothes-he usually changed six sets of clothes every day-started the fashion people". Without these historical deposits, fashion might be another look.

No matter how amazing the fashion is, it is only a flash in the pan. The steel petticoat patented in Britain in 1856 seems extremely bulky today, but it was all the rage at that time. There are many forces that provide acceleration for fashion, and the court in history bears the brunt. It is like a big stage. Nowadays, the entertainment industry is firmly at the top of fashion. Hollywood is undoubtedly the biggest promoter of fashion in the last century. With the help of light and shadow art, a large number of stars such as Hepburn and Monroe are competing to become the leaders of fashion trends. Fashion also benefits from the rapid development of media technology. Words, photos, light and shadow are deeply involved in fashion, which helps to spread the influence of fashion to the maximum extent and attract more people to fashion trends.

Another force to promote the development of fashion can not be ignored. Mani pointed out that during the Edo era in Japan, the dress code was very strict, but "high-end prostitutes often dressed according to the most popular fashion." Wu Renshu also pointed out in the book "Luxury Women: Consumer Culture of Jiangnan Women in Ming and Qing Dynasties" that as a high-income group in Ming and Qing Dynasties, some "women who lost their social life" did play the role of pursuing fashion or even leading the trend.

Interestingly, unlike the historical power deliberately creating fashion focus, with the demagoguery of modern politics, the distance between power and civilians is getting closer and closer, and it is becoming more and more difficult to create class differences through material. This means that power is no longer the main driving force of fashion butterfly change. Power withdrew, and the business and entertainment circles quickly succeeded in filling the position. Today, there are still a few politicians among the spectators of several famous show halls around the world, but entertainment stars are the frequent visitors on the red carpet. Entertainment is synonymous with fashion, and fashion is like a business card that never fades.

Fashion is a condensed version of fashion power aesthetics.

Aesthetic, different people have different opinions, but the fashion is different, which has obvious characteristics of public recognition. What kind of fashion conforms to the aesthetic taste of the public is extremely difficult to answer. If the fashion beauty that people are obsessed with in history is essentially the beauty of power, what is the symbol of today’s fashion?

In 1750, the German philosopher Baumgarden, known as the "father of aesthetics", defined it in his monograph Aesthetics: "Aesthetics (as the theory of free art, low-level epistemology, the art of beautiful thinking and the art of thinking similar to reason) is the science of perceptual knowledge." He defined aesthetics as perceptual science because he thought that "since people’s psychological activities can be divided into three aspects: knowledge, emotion and meaning, and since we specialize in the logic of knowledge and the ethics of meaning, we should also establish a science specializing in emotion, otherwise the philosophical system will be incomplete". According to its definition, aesthetics is the product of acquired cognition. Newborn babies don’t know what beauty and ugliness are. Only when the power defines the connotation of beauty and ugliness, does society really have aesthetics.

It is power that creates aesthetics, which covers all aspects of society. Fashion is only a condensed version of power aesthetics. Louis XIV thought that fashion was a symbol of absolute power. After the Manchu entered the Central Plains, they not only changed the Han people in their clothes, but also forced to leave their iconic long braids. However, at the beginning, the Han people refused to submit, and when the Qing Dynasty fell, many people fought to the death to hold on to this "ancestral family business". Once the power aesthetics goes deep into the bone marrow, it becomes a life over time. Later, what I didn’t like in the past not only looked good, but also saw another kind of "beauty".

Of course, some fashions in history have no obvious coercive significance, and power has only demonstrated some things, which still benefit people today. Brumel, a playboy, also makes people pay attention to personal hygiene. He brushes his teeth, shaves and takes a bath every day. Brumel’s fashion move has become the daily life of most people today.

As a book that presents the development of fashion rather than explores the reasons, this book may cause readers to have other questions. For example, in French and British court fashion, male fashion once occupied an absolute position. Why did fashion later become a paradise for women? One more thing, fashion is not without negative effects, for example, it will lead to huge waste, and it may also have a negative impact on the environment-Europeans’ fanatical pursuit of fur clothing directly gave birth to the fur trade in North America for three centuries, resulting in a serious survival crisis for species such as beavers, beavers, beavers and buffaloes there. (Chen Bin)

Source: Wen Wei Po